Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra Brut 2009
The first clos and first terroir to be vinified and blended separately, Clos des Goisses is unique and instantly recognisable for its extremely steep slope. Its walled 5.5 hectares vineyard is not only the oldest in Champagne, but also the steepest, at 45°. This explains the origin of its name: in the local dialect, "Gois" means a very steep slope. This exceptional terroir with chalky soil is ideally situated facing due South, on Mareuil-sur-Ay’s best hillside.
2009: A ripe year with great contrasts, which finished very well! After a severe winter, spring was stormy. Mild, wet weather was conducive to outbreaks of mildew. Luckily five weeks of warm, dry weather just before the grape harvest led to exceptional grape soundness. The vintage was fruit-laden with moderate acidity. There was more sunshine during the year than in 2008, with levels approaching those of 2002. Harvest from 13 to 16 September.
On the eye: Bright gold, with fine, delicate froth mousse.
On the nose: Initially the nose is very expressive and complex, with spicy, toasted notes of chili and pepper. On being aerated it reveals fruit-laden aromas of Morello, Amarena and black cherries.
On the palate: Fresh and mineral-driven. The fruity notes of Morello cherry and spices are apparent on the finish. An intense, well-structured wine with a wonderfully long finish.
Clos des Goisses is a very fine wine before being a very fine champagne. A perfect and unforgettable match for strong-flavoured dishes such as game, truffles, caviar and soft cheeses. When young, it is an equally good match with shellfish and white meats. Young bottles will often benefit from being decanted into a carafe.
Cellar aged for nine years and put on the market only when perfectly mature, it can then be kept for several decades and will continue to develop magnificently in the right conditions.